Shorter days, cooler temperatures and leaves falling into our ponds all have an effect on the ever changing ecological balance we maintain.  Following is a checklist, with some explanation, of things you should be aware of as we move closer to winter weather.

Cover with a leaf net.  Keep cover on until all leaves are down and surrounding areas have been cleaned of leaves and debris.  You should remove netting before heavy snow falls.  Any leaves and debris that managed to get through your net must also be removed.

Bacteria should be added right through the fall.  Microbe-Lift ‘Autumn Prep’ contains cold water bacteria and is excellent at dissolving the extra organic matter that finds its way into your pond in the fall.  Organic build up in your pond must be removed or dissolved before winter.

Clean as much organic waste from the bottom of your pond as possible without draining the pond.  Leaves, twigs, fish waste and other debris that will pollute your water and cause both fish health and water quality problems should be dissolved with Microbe-Lift ‘Sludge Digester’.

Decrease feeding as the water temperature drops.  Fish are cold-blooded and as the water cools down; their metabolism slows down, including their digestive system and their ability to digest formulated foods.  Microbe-Lift ‘Legacy Cold Weather Food is an excellent choice for temperatures under 60°F.  At 40°F, you should stop feeding and not resume until spring, when the temperature is consistently above 40°F.  Remember, we are talking about WATER temperature!

Salt level should be tested and adjusted as necessary.  Raise level to between .001 and .0015.  This is only important if you are over-wintering fish in your pond.  Pond salt not only kills parasites, but also adds electrolytes to the water which help keep gills functioning efficiently and prevents a variety of health problems.

Stress Coat should be added to the water to build up the natural mucus slime coating on the skin of fish, helping them to fend off potential problems such as fungal infections and parasites.

Pumps should be shut down and tubing drained before severe weather arrives.  You can run your pumps well into Fall if you wish, but closing the pond down in October or early November is a more pleasant job than trying to do it in a snowstorm! You don’t need to worry about circulation once the water temperatures are in the 40s.

Filters, UV Lights and any other equipment should be disconnected, drained, cleaned and stored for next season.  Depending on what type of filter you have and where it is located, you may be able to leave it out for the winter, but be sure that it will not take on water, freeze and break!  Any open ends on disconnected tubing should be plugged to keep out critters and debris.

Hardy plants must be cut back to within an inch or two of the soil level and placed in an area of the pond that is at least 12-18” deep.

Tropical plants must be removed from the pond before water temperatures drop through the 60s if you plan to save them.  Water hyacinths and lettuce are best discarded, as they are very difficult to winter, even in the best of conditions.  Marginals, such as papyrus, umbrella palm and taro, make wonderful houseplants and will continue to grow throughout the winter, providing you can give them a warm spot with plenty of light.  Tropical lilies are a little tricky to winter, but are worth the effort as they typically cost $30-50 to replace.  (See separate sheet on how to winter tropical lilies).

Vent holes must be maintained in the ice on the surface of your pond throughout the winter, unless you have no fish.  While it is rare that fish freeze to death, it is very common for them to suffocate during the winter due to lack of proper venting.

Here are several methods you may use to accomplish adequate venting:

• IceGuard maintains a hole in the ice by insulating a small area and trapping warmth from below.  In areas that receive prolonged periods of sub-freezing temperatures, you should add the optional low voltage Mini Light, which operates for just pennies per month.
• Electrical de-icers or pond heaters are very effective at keeping an area free of ice.  Barring electrical failure or a malfunction in the heater itself, you will always have a vent hole.
• Aerators are effective in most cases.  While aerators depend on electricity to operate, they use so little that you will barely notice.  If the power goes off even for a short time, however, ice will very quickly form over your vent hole.  If your pond is unattended for long periods of time in the winter, you should not rely on aeration alone.

Product Checklist
_____ pond netting                                              _____cold water fish food
_____ Stress Coat                                                         _____chlorine neutralizer
_____Microbe-Lift “Autumn Prep’                      _____test kits
_____Pond salt                                                    _____de-icer, IceGuard, aerator
_____long-handled net for debris                        _____pond thermometer
_____aquatic gloves                                            _____boots/hip waders